Called Champagne in France, Prosecco in Italy, Cava in Spain, and sparkling wine throughout California and North America, the history of the world’s best sparkling wines may have begun with a very happy accident in the cellar of Blanquette de Limoux in Languedoc, France almost 500 years ago. This happy accident was likely very cool winter weather that resulted in a “stuck fermentation,” which then woke up the yeast as the temperatures warmed, creating significant levels of carbon dioxide (the source of sparkling wine’s effervescence), and the world’s first sparkling wine was born.

In the early 17th century, a monk named Dom Pierre Pérignon who had tasted the wines of Limoux, brought the style to Champagne and began planting vines, though he passed away before commercial production could begin. In the decades that followed, several great Champagne houses were established, including Moet & Chandon in 1745 and Veuve Clicquot in 1772. At Veuve Clicquot, the legendary Madame Clicquot (one of the original great women winemakers) invented the riddling process to remove yeast after secondary fermentation—which today is universally known as the méthode champenoise.

The history of sparkling wine in Italy goes back almost as far, with the first written reference to it in 1754. In 1895, Prosecco became much more affordable to produce, and therefore more popular and available with the invention of the Charmat method, where wine undergoes secondary fermentation in a pressurized tank, prior to being filtered and bottled under pressure.

Sparkling Wine in California

The history of Russian River Valley and Sonoma County sparkling wine goes back to at least 1892 when the Korbel brothers began crafting wines using the méthode champenoise. Originally made from grapes like Riesling, Muscatel, and Traminer, the quality of Californian sparkling wine improved with the planting of the more traditional sparkling wine grapes, most notably Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. As the quality of California’s sparkling wines increased, so did investment in California from some of Champagne’s most revered houses, including Roederer (Roederer Estate), Moet & Chandon (Domaine Chandon) and Taittinger (Domaine Carneros).

Today, California sparkling wine is going through a renaissance in quality and prestige. This has been driven by several factors, including California winemakers taking inspiration from the grower Champagne movement in France, great plantings of top-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in true cool-climate wine regions, and even the record-breaking cool temperatures of the 2011 vintage, which led several innovative winemakers to pivot to sparkling wine production when their still wine grapes did not fully ripen.

Sparkling Wine at MacRostie

The genesis for our sparkling wine program began when our winemaker, Heidi Bridenhagen, was sharing a glass of Champagne with a co-worker in early 2016. After discussing how much they both loved French Champagne and the best Sonoma Coast sparkling wines, it naturally led to the question, “Why aren’t we making sparkling wine?!” As a winery that has spent almost 40 years focused on cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—the two key sparkling wine grapes—it was a natural decision for our team and something that we were excited to try.

After consulting with numerous winemakers in Champagne and California, Heidi blended Chardonnay from the famed Sangiacomo Vineyard with Pinot Noir from our own beloved Thale’s Estate Vineyard to create our debut 2016 MacRostie Sparkling Brut. In the years that followed, our sparkling program grew to include a Brut Rosé, which like the Brut, is crafted from both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. In 2020, after several vintages of refining our approach, Heidi decided to do something new and showcase the character and complexity of our Chardonnay on its own by crafting a Blanc de Blancs, with a Blanc de Noirs (sparkling wine made from red grapes) following soon after.

Now in its second vintage, we will be releasing our 2021 MacRostie Blanc de Blancs this month (September 2024), and we couldn’t be more excited. Crafted using Martini Clone Chardonnay from a prized block of theSangiacomo family’s Kiser Ranch and aged for 30 months en tirage before being disgorged and bottled with a dosage under 6 grams per liter (Extra Brut), it is a joyful sparkling wine. While it’s a serious and sophisticated Sonoma Coast Blanc de Blancs by any measure, it is also beautifully energetic and playful in a way that beckons fun! Not only is it perfect for celebrations, but it’s also the kind of radiant sparkler that brings the celebration with it.

It’s hard to believe that 2024 is my fourteenth harvest here at MacRostie and my twelfth as a winemaker. Or to put it another way, I’ve been making wine at MacRostie for a third of my life, and I’ve seen many different types of vintages. Each year brings new insights and wisdom-there is always something to learn. The 2024 growing season was an interesting one, and the success of the vintage will be different depending on what type of varietals you work with and what regions you grow them in. As a winery dedicated to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from cool-climate regions that include the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap, Carneros, Redwood Valley, Anderson Valley, and the Santa Lucia Highlands the 2024 growing season was excellent, and I am particularly excited by our Chardonnays.

The vintage started with perfect weather for flowering, producing a bountiful crop of Pinot Noir and historically average yields for Chardonnay. Moderate early summer temperatures with occasional short periods of heat provided ideal conditions for ripening. This was followed by a hot July and mild temperatures throughout most of August. In terms of the timing of the weather in the leadup to harvest, as a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay winemaker, the conditions were great.

There was some heat at the end of August and into September that hurried things along, but just as I started to get stressed about things like tank capacity and dehydration, the weather really cooled off. This gave us an extra two weeks for the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to recover on the vine, soak up some moisture, finish ripening, and come in at an even and steady pace—with really amazing quality overall! 

Happily, all of our grapes were harvested by October 1^st, which meant that we were able to bring everything in before the big heat wave that hit in October. In fact, we were finished with our Pinot Noir fermentations by the middle of October, and we are currently just wrapping up the primary fermentations for our Chardonnays. While it is still very early to properly assess the characteristics of individual wines, in general terms I am very enthusiastic. Across the board, the wines are clean, aromatic, and elegant, and I am particularly impressed with the phenomenal quality of our Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Because everything was picked before the October heat wave, the grapes arrived in pristine condition, with pure, profound flavors and an electric intensity that promises a standout vintage. While the 2021 vintage remains perhaps my favorite overall vintage for Pinot and Chardonnay, I think our 2024 Chardonnays have the potential to rival even that extraordinary growing season. Of course, only time will tell, and it will be a couple of years until we begin releasing our 2024s. Until then, our 2021, 2022, and soon-to-be-released 2023 wines offer a world of pleasure and discovery.

HEIDI BRIDENHAGEN
Winemaker – MacRostie Winery and Vineyards